🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.