Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
